Once the system is successfully installed, don’t forget the annual maintenance. It’d be the best to use the same contractor who installed it in the first place to maintain the system. That’s another reason to find a good and experienced installer in the first place.

It’s true that the system will not come cheap. The cost of an active solar heating system starts from $30 to $80 per square foot of collector area installed. But your fuel bills will be reduced so much even just in the first month. You can even use it to heat water and to generate electricity. If you’re also environmentally responsible, it will reduce air pollution and greenhouse gases. So if you know that you’ll stay in the house for a long time, then invest in a system.

Source: EERE

Even though these two systems differ in their fluid types, both of them collect and absorb solar radiation, then transfer the solar heat directly to the interior space or to a storage system, from which the heat is distributed.

Usually, in home heating, these systems might not be able to provide enough space heating, an auxiliary or back-up system provides the additional heat. Often time, the liquid system is more used when storage is included, and is better suited for radiant heating systems, boilers with hot water radiators, and even absorption heat pumps and coolers. If you have forced air systems, both air and liquid systems are great supplements.

Source: EERE

It is definitely true the cost of an active solar heating system is high and caries from places to places. Commercial systems range from $30 to $80 per square foot of collector area, installed. Usually, the larger the system, the less it costs per unit of collector area.

One thing for sure is that heating your home with an active solar energy system can significantly reduce your fuel bills in the winter. A solar heating system will also reduce the amount of air pollution and greenhouse gases that result from your use of fossil fuels such as oil, propane, and natural gas for heating or that may be used to generate the electricity that you use.

If you live in the right climate for an active solar heating system, check with the supplier and installer and find out whether cost will be offset by the savings. It will certainly save you money, but you need to find out how many years it’ll take you to recoup the cost. Also if you might move in a few years, particularly in an uncertain economic time, you might take that into consideration.

Source: EERE

How they work is not that complicated:

• A solar collector — the device through which pool water is circulated to be heated by the sun
• A filter — removes debris before water is pumped through the collector
• A pump — circulates water through the filter and collector and back to the pool
• A flow control valve — automatic or manual device that diverts pool water through the solar collector.

Talk to a contractor and see what they can offer.

Source: Department of Energy

Solar water heating systems use both direct and diffuse solar radiation. Ideally, if you live in a sunny, dry, and warm climate, it’ll be great to install one. However, northern climate might still have enough solar resources. The most important is where your home is built. If it’s built in a heavily wooded area, then it’ll not work.

The best way for you to find out if not through guessing, but consulting a solar system supplier or installer. They’re trained professionals who can conduct a solar site analysis.

Source: EERE

How does a solar water heater work? Solar water heating systems come with storage tanks and solar collectors. The storage tank is well-insulated and has an additional outlet and inlet connected to/from the solar collector. In a 2 tank system, the heater preheats water before it enters the conventional water heater. In 1 tank system, the backup heater and the solar storage are in one tank. The cost of a solar water heater usually is around $1,100.

Don’t rely on a collector’s and the piping’s (collector loop’s) insulation to keep them from freezing. The main purpose of the insulation is to reduce heat loss and increase performance. For protecting the collector and piping from damage due to freezing temperatures, you basically have two options:

• Use an antifreeze solution as the heat-transfer fluid.
• Drain the collector(s) and piping (collector loop), either manually or automatically, when there’s a chance the temperature might drop below the liquid’s freezing point.

Source: EERE, US Department of Energy

Passive solar design can also help reduce your cooling costs. Passive solar cooling techniques include carefully designed overhangs, windows with reflective coatings, and reflective coatings on exterior walls and the roof.

A passive solar house requires careful design and site orientation, which depend on the local climate. So, if you are considering passive solar design for new construction or a major remodeling, you should consult an architect familiar with passive solar techniques.

Solar Tips

• Keep all south-facing glass clean.
• Make sure that objects do not block the sunlight shining on concrete slab floors or heat-absorbing walls.

Source: EERE, US Department of Energy

You might be able to handle some of the inspections and maintenance tasks on your own, but others may require a qualified technician.

For help finding a qualified technician, see the Learn More resources listed on the right side of this page (or below if you’ve printed out this page). Ask for a cost estimate in writing before having any work done. For some systems, it may be more cost effective to replace, shut off, or remove the solar system than to have it repaired.

Periodic Inspection List

Here are some suggested inspections of solar system components. Also read your owner’s manual for a suggested maintenance schedule.

• Collector shading

  Visually check for shading of the collectors during the day (mid-morning, noon, and mid-afternoon) on an annual basis. Shading can greatly affect the performance of solar collectors. Vegetation growth over time or new construction on your house or your neighbor’s property may produce shading that wasn’t there when the collectors were installed.

• Collector soiling

  Dusty or soiled collectors will perform poorly. Periodic cleaning may be necessary in dry, dusty climates.

• Collector glazing and seals

  Look for cracks in the collector glazing, and check to see if seals are in good condition. Plastic glazing, if excessively yellowed, may need to be replaced.

• Plumbing, ductwork, and wiring connections

  Look for fluid leaks at pipe connections. Check duct connections and seals. Ducts should be sealed with a mastic compound. All wiring connections should be tight.

• Piping, duct, and wiring insulation

  Look for damage or degradation of insulation covering pipes, ducts, and wiring.

• Roof penetrations

  Flashing and sealant around roof penetrations should be in good condition.

• Support structures

  Check all nuts and bolts attaching the collectors to any support structures for tightness.

• Pressure relief valve (on liquid solar heating collectors)

  Make sure the valve is not stuck open or closed.

• Dampers (in solar air heating systems)

  If possible, make sure the dampers open and close properly.

• Pumps or blowers

  Verify that distribution pumps or blowers (fans) are operating. Listen to see if they come on when the sun is shining on the collectors after mid-morning. If you can’t hear a pump or blower operating, then either the controller has malfunctioned or the pump or blower has.

• Heat transfer fluids

  Antifreeze solutions in liquid (hydronic) solar heating collectors need to be replaced periodically. It’s a task best left to a qualified technician. If water with a high mineral content (i.e., hard water) is circulated in the collectors, mineral buildup in the piping may need to be removed by adding a de-scaling or mild acidic solution to the water every few years.

• Storage systems

  Check storage tanks, etc., for cracks, leaks, rust, or other signs of corrosion.

Source: EERE, U.S. Department of Energy